3.29.2012

zebra rich

We were only three days in but we were already running low on battery for Matt's camera. Thank goodness for smart phones and gps because soon we were off to San Luis Obispo and the closest camera shop. Rolling hills and miles of vineyards were all around us. I'll admit that at some parts I was completely anxious because of how windy the roads were. I had no idea what was ahead for Big Sur.
 
While the battery charged at the camera store, we took it upon ourselves to walk around and see what the town had to offer. The first stop was the gum alley. An entire alley were people stuck their bubble gum. Those who know me personally know that my face scrunched up and I didn't want anything to do with this part of our unguided tour. But being the ham that I am, I went and stood so Matt could at least get a picture. We also found an additional camera shop that had the type of car charger we needed and while Matt settled that, I went next door to Cowboy Cookie for a cowboy chip (chocolate chip). While on our way back to pick up the additional battery we left at the first store we were passed by a guy on a bike with a parrot for a passenger.
Next stop was Hearst Castle in San Ysidro. We arrived to find the castle set up on a great mountain. We had reservations for the grand tour which took up by bus all the way up. On the way we wound to and fro around the hill and Alex Trebek (by tape) spoke to us about the property. The road was built around the trees and the landscape. The property once held the largest private zoo and still there today is a herd of 60 zebra which is how "zebra rich" was born. The tour took us inside the main house and through several rooms and ended in the theater room where a short film was shown. The film was a home video of the castle's family and guests who visited. A-list movie stars, great producers, models and business men all sat just were we were sitting. For the rest of the time, we were left to explore the property. 
 
The photos do this great castle no justice which I know makes Matt cringe as he reads this. But this is something you have to explore first hand to understand the grandeur and lavish lifestyle of this place. Every detail was thought about and the entire project by the architect, Julia Morgan took 28 years to complete. While there were a million things I loved about this experience the top three would have to be....
1. The lemon trees. These trees became somewhat of an obsession throughout the trip. Every time I saw them I would make this weird melt face that I knew I was making but I really couldn't help it! I just thought they were so lovely and while we were in West Hollywood our first day at the Saint Patrick's day party, I was filled with jealously because the host had one in her front yard. 
 
2. The golden statues on top of the fountains. Golden hot in the sun, these really set the marble off. They were unexpected and expected at the same time. Just another great detail that went into the magnificence of the castle.
 
3. The indoor pool. I am a fish out of water. This indoor pool was beyond amazing. The light hit in certain places, statues were placed neatly around and the hues of blue made everything feel a bit cheeky and exotic. It felt like a place where lovers would gather for a midnight swim. I imagine the tile at the bottom to be smooth and lovely on one's feet. It was stunning.

Back down the mountain, Alex Trebek thanked us for our visit and spoke about some more of the history. We jumped in the car and headed down the road only to stop a record amount of times for photos and breath-taking views. On the coast elephant seals greeted us with yawns and kisses. Also let me note that the squirrels were ungodly friendly and Matt got up in their face for photos which really freaked me out.

It is most difficult for me to accurately describe the beauty of Big Sur's coastline. When I wasn't having a complete anxiety attack because were literally driving on the edge of cliffs, I was speechless because of the views. Golden rock, teal and blue water. Where the edge of the world meets the sky. In an attempt to not totally freak out and have Matt hate my guts for constantly grabbing at the door or dashboard, I took photos of what was around me. On "Toni mode" or more basically automatic, it doesn't take much of a photographer to capture anything and everything around. If I imagine the most beautiful place in the world, I imagine this place.

But if I imagine the most comfortable, pleasant sleep I've ever had, Deetjens wins. Both hands way down. A friend-of-a-friend originally from Big Sur told me to stay, as well as a coworker. I will forever recommend that anyone passing through or looking for a place to completely unwind should go here. Stay for one night or stay forever.

 
We were right on a cliff, neatly tucked in the woods. There are no locks on the doors. No tv, internet or cell service. We stayed in the champagne room which consisted of a king size bed, a simple bathroom, a chair and a wood burning stove. The host took it upon herself to make us a dinner reservation at the restaurant/office when we arrived and checked in. Checking in by the way was signing a small notebook with my name and home address. We showered and made our way to dinner by 8:30. The sun had set and it was surprisingly cool being in the woods and right next to the ocean. Just as we had the best wine the night before, this was the best meal. Matt in true Texan form had filet mignon with goat cheese mash potatoes. I had seared duck with mashed sweet potatoes and spinach. We ate slow. A small trio of musicians played directly behind us. We shared a bottle of wine and kept shaking our heads in an unsaid, "Can you believe this food, this place, this music?" manner. I felt like I was sitting in a friends home. Rustic and casual which mix matched furniture and trinkets around the room. Full and tired we head back to the room. Matt built a fire and off to dreamland we went. We decided to hike to the top of the cliff, above the Deetjens for sunrise photos the next morning.

It could have been the wine, the food, all the sight seeing the last few days but I blame it on the bed and the smell. The wood burning stove had left a faint wood smell in the sheets and my hair. We couldn't get up, we couldn't MOVE. So after several snooze hits we forewent the sunrise photos and slept a few more hours. We did however hike up around 10 to find ourselves above the clouds.

Many photos later we packed up and headed out. Out of everything we did and saw there was something so wonderful about this place that I can't put my finger on. I loved every single second I spent there. If you go and end up in the champagne room please look for my journal entry and leave one of your own (a journal is left in each room for guests to jot down and thoughts, stories or simple drawings). If I had to choose between zebra rich and the Deetjens, I would spend all of my days at Deetjens with my hair smelling faintly of smoke and my heart light and airy. 

*Most, if not all of the photography shown for the next few days and linked to this trip was taken by Matt. You can see more of his work here

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