wanderlust

I have an interesting case of wanderlust. I often lust for the very city I live in. Whenever I leave New York, even for the weekend, I dream of coming back - coming home. However each year with the change of the season my mind wanders a bit west and then very east.

I wake up wondering what it would be to exchange my view of the Empire State Building and Williamsburg Bridge for an ocean view or the Eiffel tower. I imagine salt water hair, I imagine buttery croissants. California and Paris, for completely different reasons.

California for the ocean. Not the shore or the beach but the ocean. Big Sur and hiking above the clouds. The feeling of weightlessness being that high in elevation and the anxiety of having to go back down eventually. The sun on my arms, salty lips and hair. Cool nights and a fire. Driving along the coastal highway listening to whatever is on the radio because it really doesn't matter as long as the windows are down and you know the words.

Paris for the escape. Some days I miss the feeling of not knowing a city so well. Stepping off the subway platform with butterflies of a new adventure in a new part of town. Seeking out your favorite cafe, finding the best bookstore. Falling in love with a park or a certain building. Being a fish out of water and then finding your gills, finding your own heartbeat in a place you've never known or been. I'm constantly mesmerized by New York's lights but I crave new shapes and spaces. Carving out a home in a new place that feels similar but wholly different.

Sometimes when I cross the bridge on my bike and I'm heading downhill into the lower east side I take my hands off the bars and spread them wide. I stretch my arms and fingertips. I pull in the entire city and for a minute feel like it can actually fit within the width of my body. I love it here more than anywhere I've ever been. It's home but when I woke up this morning I wondered what Paris looked like in the snow and how nice it would be to take a walk along the ocean during a sunny November California morning.

city scapes

We woke up on Thursday and started our sight seeing in Japantown. I bought several little trinkets for friends and family here while Matt took photos that now looking back, look more like actual Japan than San Francisco. Back down to Fillmore Street to a small coffee shop for a chai latte and breakfast sandwich, we refilled and set off on our urban hike. Do not ever underestimate the hills of this city. At some points I actually thought it would be easier to just crawl because the sidewalks were so steep. Up and down and up again, we tried to see as much as we could and that our legs could handle.
We spent most of the day on our feet exploring the city. Once we found our way to the bay, we rented bikes at Dylan's Tours. We rode out on the pier that looked towards Alcatraz then continued our bike ride towards the Golden Gate Bridge. I thought that I would be more than ready for the 45 minutes to the bridge but those hills got me again. Slow and steady wins the race and we made it up and across the bridge. It was insanely windy and unlike the Brooklyn Bridge here in Manhattan, when you cross the Golden Gate, you are riding along side with traffic. Nonetheless, back into the city we went to drop off our bikes and make the hike back to the hotel.
Since we had worked up such an appetite, we figured Italian was the best bet to gain back some strength. We had dinner at Colombini that night. This is the part where I began to miss Manhattan a bit because it had a West Village vibe. Small and cozy with one waiter and two cooks, the food was delicious and the atmosphere felt warm and inviting, especially from beating the streets all day. I enjoyed the penne gorgonzola while Matt had smoked salmon with pappardelle. We made the slow decent back to the hotel and once back, packed up our bags which had exploded across the room. By this point we were getting lazy about keeping everything neatly organized. We decided to get an early start on the Redwood forest adventure the next day and set the alarm for 5 am.

coasting along

The main reason I work out is so I can eat whatever I please. I'm not talking about chocolate cake for every meal but if the moment strikes me, I want to eat whatever it is and not feel guilty and awful. Big Sur Bakery was one of the checkpoints in my simple coastal road trip list. As we left Deetjens, I mentioned it to Matt but we were unsure if we had passed it the previous day or if it was still north of where we began that morning. Keeping things laid back we decided we'd stop if we saw it, if we didn't then we'd have to forget about it. We had an entire coastline to see and wanted to make it to San Francisco by that evening.

Luckily about 10 minutes down the road we found the bakery. We also spotted a sign that said the next gas station wasn't for 40 miles so we figured we could do with a snack and a fill. The bakery was lovely AND they had my favorite muffin, lemon poppy seed with icing. I didn't get coffee only because I still had a full cup for Deetjen's in the console. Even though we had only been on the road for 10 minutes, we took a break and walked around the garden and sat in the sun to eat our treats. The garden was eclectic and hodge-podge with different little sculptures and trinkets. We filled up and off we went. Side note: there was another gas station only 5 or so minutes away so the sign was completely wrong. Nonetheless, we were happy to have stopped.

The fourth day was mostly spent touring the coast. We stopped often to take photos and walk along the beach and cliffs. At Garrapata we walked down to the beach and spoke to a few others who others who traveled near and far to walk along the coast. A few more miles down the road we stopped again. Here we walked along the cliffs and started jogging when we heard echoes of otters barking. We found a stop where we could carefully climb to the edge of the cliffs to look for those otters we had heard. Only minutes before we headed back up the rock because of the strong tide and the fear that the waves would soon reach us, we saw a sea otter flipped around and floating on his back along the waves. We realized that the echoes we heard were bouncing off of the cliffs from a small island further out in the ocean. The otters were out of our reach but at least we got to see one before we had to get back in the car.
 

Knowing that I couldn't visit California without one actual beach day, we set our minds to Carmel-by-the-sea. The small charming town was not at all what I had imagined. At my previous job I had worked with a client who was holding her wedding here. I had thought it would be a much more built up town. I was happily surprised that it was a low-key beach stop where dogs over numbered people on the beach. We laid out for a few hours and climbed a few trees for an impromptu photo shoot.

Off again we stopped briefly to enjoy lunch at Michaels on Main in Soquel. Soquel was an odd little town but we were happy to be out of the car and eating having that we were absolutely starving. This place had a sure trend of putting garlic in everything. We figured since we were both eating it, the other wouldn't be able to tell. We also hit up happy hour which meant a cool beer for me and icy margarita for Matt.
The sky was bright and sunny the entire day. That was until we started seeing signs that we were approaching San Francisco. I almost wanted to just turn around. We had sun and warmth the entire trip thus far and now it was dark and gloomy. If this was how San Francisco was, I didn't want to stay. Once we got to the Hotel Majestic though, my mood had completely changed. This boutique hotel was right up my alley. It seemed like a throw back in time and I was happy to be out of the car and staying for a full two days without having to drive. As I unpacked, Matt went down to deal with parking the car and surprise me with a Majestic drink and snack. A Majestic was a lime, basil, vodka type drink which was exactly what I was in the mood for. Accompanying the drink were spicy strawberries and sliced apples. This set the tone for our Cajun meal at The Elite Cafe that night.
The Elite Cafe was on Fillmore Street in San Francisco where many restaurants and stores could be found. The art deco styled restaurants boasted perfectly made Manhattans so we started there. I ordered seafood gumbo to start and jonnycakes as my meal. Matt enjoyed jambalaya which came in a huge iron skillet, made for two. We finished the meal with a trio of sorbet and two cappuccinos. Our waiter was a true gentlemen and after we finished we learned that the restaurant had actually closed over an hour ago but he didn't want to rush our meal! Full and exhausted from the day we walked back to the hotel. I say walked but really we climbed. The only thing I knew about the city was it's legendary hills which I really got a taste of the following day.

*Most, if not all of the photography shown for the next few days and linked to this trip was taken by Matt. You can see more of his work here. 

intermission

Here we are half way through our trip. While I'm posting a minimal amount of all the beautiful photos captured along the way, I wanted to be sure that everyone was able to see what I am not posting. The link below shows more of the trip and of the lovely things we saw. Enjoy.
 
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zebra rich

We were only three days in but we were already running low on battery for Matt's camera. Thank goodness for smart phones and gps because soon we were off to San Luis Obispo and the closest camera shop. Rolling hills and miles of vineyards were all around us. I'll admit that at some parts I was completely anxious because of how windy the roads were. I had no idea what was ahead for Big Sur.
 
While the battery charged at the camera store, we took it upon ourselves to walk around and see what the town had to offer. The first stop was the gum alley. An entire alley were people stuck their bubble gum. Those who know me personally know that my face scrunched up and I didn't want anything to do with this part of our unguided tour. But being the ham that I am, I went and stood so Matt could at least get a picture. We also found an additional camera shop that had the type of car charger we needed and while Matt settled that, I went next door to Cowboy Cookie for a cowboy chip (chocolate chip). While on our way back to pick up the additional battery we left at the first store we were passed by a guy on a bike with a parrot for a passenger.
Next stop was Hearst Castle in San Ysidro. We arrived to find the castle set up on a great mountain. We had reservations for the grand tour which took up by bus all the way up. On the way we wound to and fro around the hill and Alex Trebek (by tape) spoke to us about the property. The road was built around the trees and the landscape. The property once held the largest private zoo and still there today is a herd of 60 zebra which is how "zebra rich" was born. The tour took us inside the main house and through several rooms and ended in the theater room where a short film was shown. The film was a home video of the castle's family and guests who visited. A-list movie stars, great producers, models and business men all sat just were we were sitting. For the rest of the time, we were left to explore the property. 
 
The photos do this great castle no justice which I know makes Matt cringe as he reads this. But this is something you have to explore first hand to understand the grandeur and lavish lifestyle of this place. Every detail was thought about and the entire project by the architect, Julia Morgan took 28 years to complete. While there were a million things I loved about this experience the top three would have to be....
1. The lemon trees. These trees became somewhat of an obsession throughout the trip. Every time I saw them I would make this weird melt face that I knew I was making but I really couldn't help it! I just thought they were so lovely and while we were in West Hollywood our first day at the Saint Patrick's day party, I was filled with jealously because the host had one in her front yard. 
 
2. The golden statues on top of the fountains. Golden hot in the sun, these really set the marble off. They were unexpected and expected at the same time. Just another great detail that went into the magnificence of the castle.
 
3. The indoor pool. I am a fish out of water. This indoor pool was beyond amazing. The light hit in certain places, statues were placed neatly around and the hues of blue made everything feel a bit cheeky and exotic. It felt like a place where lovers would gather for a midnight swim. I imagine the tile at the bottom to be smooth and lovely on one's feet. It was stunning.

Back down the mountain, Alex Trebek thanked us for our visit and spoke about some more of the history. We jumped in the car and headed down the road only to stop a record amount of times for photos and breath-taking views. On the coast elephant seals greeted us with yawns and kisses. Also let me note that the squirrels were ungodly friendly and Matt got up in their face for photos which really freaked me out.
It is most difficult for me to accurately describe the beauty of Big Sur's coastline. When I wasn't having a complete anxiety attack because were literally driving on the edge of cliffs, I was speechless because of the views. Golden rock, teal and blue water. Where the edge of the world meets the sky. In an attempt to not totally freak out and have Matt hate my guts for constantly grabbing at the door or dashboard, I took photos of what was around me. On "Toni mode" or more basically automatic, it doesn't take much of a photographer to capture anything and everything around. If I imagine the most beautiful place in the world, I imagine this place.

But if I imagine the most comfortable, pleasant sleep I've ever had, Deetjens wins. Both hands way down. A friend-of-a-friend originally from Big Sur told me to stay, as well as a coworker. I will forever recommend that anyone passing through or looking for a place to completely unwind should go here. Stay for one night or stay forever.
 
We were right on a cliff, neatly tucked in the woods. There are no locks on the doors. No tv, internet or cell service. We stayed in the champagne room which consisted of a king size bed, a simple bathroom, a chair and a wood burning stove. The host took it upon herself to make us a dinner reservation at the restaurant/office when we arrived and checked in. Checking in by the way was signing a small notebook with my name and home address. We showered and made our way to dinner by 8:30. The sun had set and it was surprisingly cool being in the woods and right next to the ocean. Just as we had the best wine the night before, this was the best meal. Matt in true Texan form had filet mignon with goat cheese mash potatoes. I had seared duck with mashed sweet potatoes and spinach. We ate slow. A small trio of musicians played directly behind us. We shared a bottle of wine and kept shaking our heads in an unsaid, "Can you believe this food, this place, this music?" manner. I felt like I was sitting in a friends home. Rustic and casual which mix matched furniture and trinkets around the room. Full and tired we head back to the room. Matt built a fire and off to dreamland we went. We decided to hike to the top of the cliff, above the Deetjens for sunrise photos the next morning.

It could have been the wine, the food, all the sight seeing the last few days but I blame it on the bed and the smell. The wood burning stove had left a faint wood smell in the sheets and my hair. We couldn't get up, we couldn't MOVE. So after several snooze hits we forewent the sunrise photos and slept a few more hours. We did however hike up around 10 to find ourselves above the clouds.
Many photos later we packed up and headed out. Out of everything we did and saw there was something so wonderful about this place that I can't put my finger on. I loved every single second I spent there. If you go and end up in the champagne room please look for my journal entry and leave one of your own (a journal is left in each room for guests to jot down and thoughts, stories or simple drawings). If I had to choose between zebra rich and the Deetjens, I would spend all of my days at Deetjens with my hair smelling faintly of smoke and my heart light and airy. 

*Most, if not all of the photography shown for the next few days and linked to this trip was taken by Matt. You can see more of his work here. 

and we're off

First day on the road. A full tank of gas, week ahead and brimming with excitement. The first stop was the San Ysidro Trail in Santa Barbara. Somehow after 2 years Matt was able to remember where the trail began which was a feat having that it was up and winding road that seemed, at least to me, like a private driveway. I changed into my sneakers, we packed my bag full of water and an extra lens and off we went. Four miles is easy in New York City, four miles on this hike was 90% hills.

Being sore from the Baldwin Hill adventure the previous day, it took my knees and hips some warming up. We took our time going up, stopping often to walk or climb over rocks which were cut with a stream. There were beautiful pools throughout the hike. So beautiful that I wasn't watching where I was stepping and had to spend half my day with a soggy sneaker. Nonetheless, lovely. We passed many couples, runners and dogs. All enjoying the sunshine and the scenery. At the top a waterfall. I say waterfall with a grain of salt but rewarding and lovely all the same.

I can blink myself into hunger so after the hike we headed into town for Mexican and two well deserved margaritas at Carlitos. Matt had enchiladas and I had a trio of tamales, both good. I could have settled for a liquid lunch after one sip of my margarita though. Matt sipped on an agave margarita which was only second to mine but still very well made. (We couldn't remember the exact name of mine but we do remember it being pink!) After lunch we walked around the town a bit and hopped on the 25 cent tram that took us to the marina. Persistent, we set down a blanket to have a sit for a while but it wasn't an ideal beach day being slightly chilly. Plus, we still had a ways to go to San Ynez and Solvang.

Have you been to Disney World? Do you remember "it's a small world"? Welcome to Solvang. Windmills and perfectly darling architecture, this small town became our first night away from home. We stayed at the Kronborg Inn on the edge of town. Bonus points for the jazzuci in the room! It was perfect distance to walk to dinner that night at Cecco where we had the pleasure of having the best bottle of wine of our entire trip, Brander 09 Merlot. Paired with gnocchi (me) and swordfish (Matt) we slowly relived the day and got an idea together of what tomorrow would bring. The next morning we walked around town and in and out of small stores. We learned that we both had rock collections and picked up some scents at a small store for the car which smelled like fruity pebbles from a terrible and unfortunate Ed Hardy car freshener mishap. The we were up and out for day three of our adventure.

*Most, if not all of the photography shown for the next few days and linked to this trip was taken by Matt. You can see more of his work here.

california love

 

I've been gone and more specifically, completely gone. 7 days in California. No true excuse or celebration to make the trip which made it all more wonderful. Without a start, without a finish. Too much for a single post, I thought it would be nice to give each day the attention it deserves. The trip began in LA.

When I was at my last job I always called bullshit on those having a getaway weekend with organized work out activities planned. That was until I was stretching out at The Gym at Hayden in Culver City. After a quick work out we headed across the street to the Baldwin Hill. 511 feet up and 282 stairs later I simply wanted to lay down and take a nap. However from the top, Matt was able to point out different parts of LA to me. Some of which we had visited the evening before for a Saint Patrick's day party in West Hollywood. It also meant the wonderful fish tacos I had at Kay'n Dave's the night before didn't count against me. Not that I care much about that because 30 minutes later after a stop at Jackson's Market, a charming market just down the street from Matt's, we were devouring his famous french toast.

Breakfast down we drove over to Pasadena for a few hours to spend at The Huntington. Library, art collections and magnificent gardens, we escapes the afternoon rain for a walk through a pretty decent park of the property given our time restraint. My favorite part of the garden was the Rose Garden. I've never particularly been a fan of roses, the smell isn't something I care for but they do remind me of my mom and being several 1000 miles from her it felt comforting. The Huntington is somewhere I hope to spend more time at my next trip out and I very much recommend for anyone else to visit. 

Another interesting surprise from my trip to LA was my venture to the Somosa House East. The vegan Indian food here was far beyond what I thought it was going to be. I was happily full and eager to get to sleep as we started up the coast the next day. Off on our coastal road trip, the trip that I couldn't have dreamed up better. 

*Most, if not all of the photography shown for the next few days and linked to this trip was taken by Matt. You can see more of his work here.